The standard or “grade” for extra virgin olive oil is a minimum standard. It should be viewed as the minimum standard of acceptability and not as a certificate of merit. Many olive oils that receive the grade of extra virgin are anything but by the time they are purchased or consumed.

Olive oil is not a static product. It is a living, changing, transforming food with a very short life span. Some oils are more durable than others. All oils decrease in potency and strength over time. Many high quality olive oils are oxidized and rancid well before they are consumed or even purchased. In general, fresher is better.

The International Olive Oil Council (IOOC), recently voted to raise the standard for extra virgin olive oil by lowering the maximum allowable percent of free fatty acids, (FFA) from 1% to .8%. The free fatty acid level is a kind of quality and freshness quotient. In general, the lower the FFA level the better the oil. The new higher standard is scheduled is to come into effect sometime in 2004.
What to look for when searching for high-quality extra virgin oil:

• Lower acidity levels on the label: Less than .5% FFA.
• The name or names of the variety or cultivar listed on the label.
• The date the oil was packaged should appear clearly on the label. Fresher is definitely better.
• UV protected packaging which will help keep the oil fresh and bright.
• Settled, but unfiltered oil is usually stronger and more flavorful.
• Smaller regional brands that specialize in an area and not an entire country.
• "Aceite Nuevo," or New Oil, is a great treat if you can find it.

What to avoid:

• Labels that state, "less than 1% acidity".
• Oils that say simply "packed in Italy".
• Clear glass or plastic packaging.
• Oils that have been in the package for more than 6 months.
• Labels that list a group of countries as possible sources for the oil.
• Oils that are made from table olives. This is a bit like trying to make fine wine from Thompson seedless grapes.

Relevant Links on Olives and Olive Oil: International Olive Oil Council, www.internationaloliveoil.org: This site is a trade supported site that has some useful information about how the trade governs its members and grades olive oil.